Sunday, May 19, 2013

Wherever it Takes column: A day in flashy Florence


Printed in the Wicked Local Weeklies
May 16, 2013

Florence, Italy is saturated with treasures, from statues to paintings to culinary masterpieces. But the city itself is its most exquisite work of art. Their architecture is as flawless as any statue. Their people are as colorful as any painting. Inspiration flows right along with the city's river. From morning, to noon to night, you can experience the best of Renaissance Italy just by strolling the streets of flashy Firenze.

The Duomo and its sparkling red, green and white facade absorb the morning light like a marble sponge. With a crisp morning sky, the entire impressive structure instantly becomes more photogenic than supermodels strutting the catwalks of Milan. A short walk away and the Ponte Vecchio shimmers like the jewelry being sold in its shops. This Old Bridge is like no other bridge you've ever seen, bustling with shoppers scouring the stores that hang out over the water like flower-filled windowboxes.

If you're lucky, your stomach will let you know it is lunchtime before the bell towers around town. 
In Florence, as in a lot of Italy, most anywhere will provide a good bite. But a stop at Trattoria Mario's or All' Antico Vinaio and you've been whisked to another plane of gastronomic excellence. Most obviously, you're getting something fresh for lunch: fresh-sliced proscuitto or porchetta piled high on fresh-baked bread, or perhaps a bowl of freshly-made pasta next to a plate of freshly picked vegetables.
Walking is the best remedy for a full stomach, especially after a carbo-loaded lunch. Of course, having a scooter at your disposal is another option for motoring about town. You can zip between some of the other tourist destinations, like the Uffizi Gallery or the Academia, where Michelangelo's David calls home.

As your afternoon begins to wane, Firenze is just getting revved up. The trattorias, cafes and bars begin to buzz with life, as well as the open piazzas. Street musicians playing cellos, violins and guitars warm up, quickly shifting into classical masterpieces, Italian songs and a few familiar pop hits. You've never heard Gloria Gaynor's “I Will Survive” until you've heard it plucked on a cello by an old, Italian man standing next to a carousel.

Before the Tuscan sun begins to drop behind the far-off hills, your trek should circle back to the Duomo. By now, you've hopefully burned off your lunch, or else the 400-plus steep stairs to the top of the cupola might be sluggish. The reward at the top is well worth it. From the top, the stunning 360-degree view of this exquisite Renaissance city is emphasized by the burnt-orange halo descending over every terra-cotta roof and marble column. The purple Tuscan hills in the distance heave and fall in the gathering evening shadows, a perfect backdrop to the glowing city sprawled out below. Take a deep breath, exhale into the Italian air and take in Renaissance Italy.

By the time you make your way back to ground level, and night has fallen over Firenze, a new beauty awakens. Again revisiting an earlier landmark, walk past Ponte Vecchio to one of the other bridges crossing Florence's river. From the middle of any bridge, the Arno River reflects the city lights and an artistic dance of shadow and illumination unravels in the dark current.

Florence - from its buildings to its food to its people - is a picturesque playground. There are treasures around every corner, and since you can't take snapshots in the art museums, you'll be snapping away along the streets. But even with the naked eye, most anything you see will be indelibly saved in your mind’s memory. So spend a day basking in the unforgettable flash of Firenze.

Mike Hartigan of Saugus is a writer and traveler looking for good story, wherever it takes. Follow along at www.whereverittakes.com or on Twitter @WhereverItTakes



Read more: Wherever it Takes column: A day in flashy Florence - Saugus, MA - Saugus Advertiser http://www.wickedlocal.com/saugus/news/x168365555/Wherever-it-Takes-column-A-day-in-flashy-Florence#ixzz2TkTWxWpc
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Friday, May 10, 2013

Travelin' on the Wild Side

Everyone has a wild side, especially travelers. We instinctually seek out the unknown, explore the unexplored and we traverse the globe looking for excitement. It's in our nature, which might be why we feel a kinship with our friends in nature. 

I've met plenty of interesting people in plenty of interesting places around the world. But I have to admit, some of the most memorable souls I've shared a laugh with, had fur and tails.  Zoos, parks, mountains, forests - the lower levels of the food chain are sometimes much better company than the top.  As long as they don't turn you into a chew toy, stumbling upon wildlife, either in the wild or in feigned wild, can add a whole new element to your vacation. 

It has to do with genuineness, unpredictability and our desire as travels for both. We want to live like temporary locals when we go to a foreign place, which entails eating, drinking and acting unlike we normally would at home. It's easy to do that in Dublin or Santiago or LA. Customs can be learned, cultures can be appreciated and languages can be absorbed. But what happens when there is no language at all and the culture is walking on all fours? Unpredictability and genuineness are at a premium. 

When was the last time you gnawed on a stalk of bamboo while sitting on a log? Or trotted vertically up a sheer cliff face with a brass bell around your neck? Or perched on a gargoyle high atop a gothic cathedral? Never? Then you haven't lived at all like these locals. 

Here are my ten favorite animal encounters from around the globe.


Panda Karaoke - National Zoo, Washington, D.C.


Red Squirrel - Vienna, Austria


Pigeon on a gargoyle - St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna, Austria


Goat - Interlaken, Switzerland


Lazy Sea Lions & the Golden Gate Bridge - Pier 39, San Francisco, CA


Friendly Giraffe - Disney's Animal Kingdom, Orlando, FL


Up close with a butterfly - Antietam National Battlefield, Maryland

Wild Bison on patrol - Black Hills, South Dakota

Two gulls, one cracker - Rome, Italy

Got Moose? - Franconia Notch, New Hampshire



Thursday, May 9, 2013

Wherever it Takes column: Good old places for a pint




Printed in the Wicked Local Weeklies
May 9, 2013

Barley, hops, yeast, water – seems like such a simple concoction. Yet somehow, a beer is never just a beer. It’s a round with a few friends or a toast in celebration. It brings people together and consoles in silence. In so many places around the globe and here in America from coast to coast, beer is a lifestyle, an attraction, an identity.

That’s why it takes a truly special place to serve it well and serve it in abundance. True, any old bar can pour from a tap or crank the top off a bottle for you. But only a unique, dedicated establishment becomes a watering hole. At places like that, there is no pretension, no expectation, no snobbery or braggadocio. Just an empty seat, a lengthy beer list and a perfect pour every time.

All across America there are places where everybody knows your name. And if you’re just passing through, there are places that will learn your name, at least for the night, long enough to say it in a toast.

Everyone has their own personal list of favorite bars, compiled without scientific evidence, unless you like to measure in pints. Fortunately, there seem to be an unlimited amount of worthy contenders from sea to shining sea.

I have always had trouble narrowing down my own and have vowed to ensure it is not a finite list. There is always another microbrewery or neighborhood bar off the beaten path. But some of my favorites from around the country run the gamut of what a bar can be: some are classic and some are unique, some are famous and one is infamous. Each has a distinct identity that reflects the community around it in the same way an annual brew reflects a specific season.

During any season, Colorado's microbrew community is legendary and you can't go wrong with most any choice in the Rockies. But Wynkoop Brewery has staked a claim near the top. Why? Three words: Chili Pepper Beer. Patty's Chile Beer, to be exact, a Wynkoop house specialty. The award-winning brew comes infused with Anaheim chiles and smoked Ancho peppers. It is light, with a golden color and a slightly reddish hue. The pepper aroma hits you before the smoky flavor on first sip. The chile bite is there but not overpowering and it goes down surprisingly smooth. There's a savory heat that builds up the palette from a traditional German-type beer to something totally unique and flavorful.

The offspring of the Colorado microbreweries that dominate the Rocky Mountain region can be found at Firehouse Brewing Company in Rapid City, South Dakota. Firehouse is historic – it is South Dakota’s first brewpub and is located in Rapid City’s original firehouse. The relaxed atmosphere, local entertainment and genuine people honing their craft are just like most small brewpubs, but Firehouse adds nostalgia and a surprising sense of escape. Sitting out on the patio, watching some live music and sipping a glass of Smoke Jumper Stout or Brown Cow Ale is the best way to take a timeout from whatever cross-country, family road trip you’re enduring. The boys on Mt. Rushmore can wait; they’re not going anywhere. Just have the waiter bring another round.

A few states south is Anodyne in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Throw around a large bottle selection (over 120 by their count), including some great locals like the clean Alien Amber, and you’ve got yourself a full-on, fun-time beer bar. Located on one of ABQ’s main drags, this upstairs, dimly lit pool hall is bedazzled in beer paraphernalia and jukeboxes. It has an edgy hipster vibe that is surprisingly approachable and welcoming, in part due to the comfy seating possibilities at the top of the staircase. The regulars stream in, clapping each other on the backs and petting their dogs, which health codes or not, were just as welcomed as their bipedal owners. The name - Anodyne - means, "a medicine that relieves or allays pain." Exactly.
Over on the Eastern seaboard, I have an affinity for Trinity – Trinity Brewhouse. Mostly because a good amount of my college days were spent in the basement at this Providence, Rhode Island microbrewery, where the dark walls, tables and corners make it the perfect place to unwind after (or instead of) a study session. Upstairs they serve spectacular burgers to help sop up the pints of award-winning beer, like the Rhode Island IPA. While enjoying the delicious Redrum Imperial, check out the mural high along the dining room wall depicting famous musicians enjoying a brew. You can spot John Lennon and Kurt Cobain sharing a pint with The Notorious B.I.G. and The Rat Pack. If you’re swinging through New England, make it a point to hit Lil’ Rhodey and one of the state’s best brew pubs for dinner, a drink or to pick up a growler.



There are countless great bars and happy hour specials a few hours south of Rhode Island in Washington, D.C. But the founding fathers would have appreciated gritty denial of no-option tyranny at The Bier Baron. The beer menu here – 500 bottles and 50 drafts – should be housed in the National Archives and the no-nonsense atmosphere and service lets you know this place takes hops seriously. The comfortable brick wall basement bar feel makes this establishment worth crossing the Potomac for.

But at the end of the day, I would travel to the literal end of America to indulge in a legend – Captain Tony’s. Ernest Hemingway sat on these stools. Jimmy Buffet too. And so did some guy named Earl from Poughkeepsie in his Hawaiian shirt and flip-flops. That’s the beauty of the world’s greatest dive bar, located at the southernmost point of the United States in beautiful Key West, Florida.

Captain Tony’s is infamous not just because of its inclusion in the Buffet song, “Last Mango in Paris” or because of its eponymous, grizzled owner. It is legendary because it is accessible. Fisherman and tourist sit side by side while a local band rattles away. Grab a stool. Grab a beer. Grab a conversation with anyone. Next thing you know, the dusk is settling in and you’re a few steps away from Key West’s best show – the sunset.

I had the pleasure of meeting Captain Tony himself before he passed away. The Captain was a staple at the bar, his weathered face a welcome reminder that a hard life is filled with equal parts hard work and hard partying.

He may be gone now, but Captain Tony’s Key West vibe remains at his bar and ripples all along Duval Street.

All of these bars, from Denver to D.C., offer unique brews and fuzzy but fond memories. But in the end, they are all simply good old places for a pint.
Mike Hartigan of Saugus is a writer and traveler looking for good story, wherever it takes. Follow along at www.whereverittakes.com or on Twitter @WhereverItTakes


Read more: Wherever it Takes column: Good old places for a pint - Saugus, MA - Saugus Advertiser http://www.wickedlocal.com/saugus/news/x715754446/Wherever-it-Takes-column-Good-old-places-for-a-pint#ixzz2TkRo0YI3
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Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Music City Mayhem


Destinations Travel Magazine
May, 2013 Issue
By Michael Hartigan


Thousands upon thousands of bands have passed through Nashville, Tennessee. It is, after all, Music City, U.S.A. But fortunately for those of us with little to no musical talent, a group devoid of crooners and pickers can still rock this town upside down.

Spend a weekend in Nashville and you will assuredly bump into every type of getaway group there is: bachelor parties, bachelorette parties, girls’ weekends, guys’ weekends, couples on vacation, parents getting away from their kids or kids getting away from their parents. All are looking for relaxing getaways, raucous revelry or a healthy mix of both. Nashville will oblige because in music, and in travel, going solo can be fun, but nothing beats an upbeat collaboration. Nashville, like any good concert, is better together.

The crowds gravitate toward several specific areas in Nashville, such as the nostalgic and fun Country Music Hall of Fame or the trendy and vibrant neighborhood near Vanderbilt University. But like New York City, the rhythm of Nashville beats loudest on Broadway. Broadway, the city’s main drag, stretches for several blocks from the riverfront up past the arena, lined with bars and saloons, each with a live band cranking out originals and covers morning, noon and night. Most days begin and end right here, although typically not at the exact same place.

Regardless of what time your group arrives in Tennessee, it would do well to start right here on Broadway. Pick a place, any place. Choose one based on the buzzing neon signs, or by the clientele listing in and out or better yet, by the sweet sounds tinkling out from the open doors and open windows.

You will know the famous and infamous Tootsies by the purple lilac hue glowing around its windows, door and façade. Inside is a jam-packed party, with a tiny stage tucked right inside the front door, so small that from the back of the bar it looks like the singer is balancing on peoples’ shoulders. But with such great music and such a great vibe, Tootsies is the ultimate down-home dive bar.

Up Broadway is Legends, a rustic country saloon with quality afternoon acts on the stage, perfect for getting the evening started early or to continue the night before. Make sure to take turns throwing tips in the jar at the band’s feet; you’ll usually get a request.

Over at The Stage, rumor is the Saturday night show here is when the best up-and-comers perform. Even if you aren’t witnessing the next platinum-selling superstar, this classic honky-tonk boasts a large stage to support a large band. And a large band means a rowdy, rocking show.

Country music lovers will of course be in their glory along Broadway and all over Nashville. Unlike your typical dive bar cover band, the musicians in this town are all quality, no matter which establishment you patronize. It is easy to fall into conversation with your travel companions about the obvious devotion that most every one of these artists has to their music, not to mention their extraordinary amount of talent.

The all-inclusive hospitality that oozes from every corner of this city encourages all ears to embrace the honky-tonk spirit. You don’t have to be a country music fan to let loose and thoroughly enjoy Music City. Each watering hole along Broadway is tailor-made for sing-alongs and should-by-shoulder swaying. One thing is certain, no matter your taste in music, when the band starts playing Garth Brooks’ Friends in Low Places, you’re going to want a beer in your hand and your pals close by.

If dancing and drinking aren’t on the agenda, or if your bleary-eyed bunch needs to recuperate from too much of either, Nashville’s Gaylord Opryland Resort is a harmonious retreat. Situated on the city’s outskirts next to the famous Grand Ole Opry concert hall, the Gaylord Opryland is a destination in itself. Here more than 2,800 luxurious guest rooms spread across a sprawling complex that buzzes like a city within a city. There are hints of Las Vegas or Disney World style resorts, in terms of grandeur, hospitality and flare. But the southern charm is distinctly Nashville. Each section boasts atriums filled with vegetation, shopping, dining and entertainment, right outside the guest rooms. A river flows through one, while a skywalk takes you around the treetops in another.

Nashville is not all bars and spas. At the Country Music Hall of Fame the massive wall of gold records and rare Elvis memorabilia pale in comparison to the almost spiritual experience of walking around the circular induction hall. Back up on Broadway, Jack’s BBQ, one of the best in town, pumps out sweet aromas that makes the entire city smell like succulent smoked meat. The benefit of eating at Jack’s en masse: sharing. Lay out a few platters and let the group go to town on tender pulled pork and smoky sweet ribs, perfectly cooked with the right amount of zip.

This city certainly knows a thing or two about collaboration, on stage, in the studio, and especially when it comes to showing your group a good time. No matter where you go here, Nashville will have your band playing well into the night and begging for an encore.






Monday, April 29, 2013

Disney for Big Kids



Every five-year-old dreams of visiting Mickey’s house. But what happens when mom and dad get a yearning to escape reality? The destination doesn’t have to differ.

Walt Disney World may just be the happiest place on earth for kids of all ages; even those who don’t really expect to act childish. The collection of famous theme parks and resorts that put Orlando, Florida on the map (and every child’s wish list) specializes in removing its visitors, young and old, from the trappings of everyday life. This means deftly balancing equal parts kiddie rides and a full-on indulgence for adults.

If you step back from the princesses and space rangers, a different Disney comes into focus. This is the Disney that understands twenty-somethings and thirty-somethings grew up hooked on classic Disney flicks and hold a special place in their nostalgia bank for Simba, Belle and Buzz.

So being the genius corporation that it is, Disney devised a way to make it all right for adults to visit their theme park (simultaneously creating short-term and life-long customers). All they had to do was weave in some adults-only attractions, sprinkle on some magic pixie dust and poof - big kids come pouring in.

It may not be apparent at first, but Disney World truly is a destination for anyone without children. Foodies can take advantage of some top-notch eating. Relaxation-seekers can indulge in some serious pampering at various spas. For those looking for thrills, Disney has created some surprisingly exciting rides.

If you visit at the right time (I’d suggest May or September, before school ends or after it begins and not during the school vacation or summer swamp-sweat season) and you use your time wisely (take advantage of early park openings, late park closings and snatch up Fast Pass line cutting stubs like they’re being auctioned on eBay) you will avoid lines and frustration.

But the real treats are the ones that aren’t on the billboards and brochures. They’re known, of course, everything here is. However, you won’t see every family of five skipping off to partake. Golf, for example, is one way to escape the castles and pirate ships, unless of course you’re mini-golfing.

But if I’m giving the Mouse my money, here are my five favorite big kid experiences at Walt Disney World. 

  1. EPCOT around the world
How can you grab a margarita in Mexico, sake in Japan, wine in Italy and a frozen cocktail in France all in one night? Walk briskly. EPCOT was built as the community of tomorrow, but while we’re all waiting for the future why not have a drink?

The trick is to start early. This day can go long and get rough, especially if the swamp weather arrives. You’ll know it has if the small of your back starts sweating.

Pick a country, say France since it is easily accessible and right over the bridge from the back entrance. Locate its alcohol dispensary, typically a cart, kiosk, bar or pub, and begin the journey.

France has an orange creamsicle flavored frozen drink that is both refreshing and buzz inducing. It also sells wine from street carts.

Stroll your way around to other countries like Italy, which has a wine bar that specializes in the delicious, highbrow Banfi wine collection. Japan recently opened a new sake bar and almost every adult in Mexico is carrying an oversized frozen margarita. The German beer garden is a rollicking, raucous good time, complete with oompa brass band, long tables and hefty steins of lip-smacking German beer.

Many of these days end in the UK, at the pub. Amongst tired dads who just “ran to the bathroom,” you’ll be clinking your glasses, singing folksongs and prepping to tackle another day in the happiest place on earth.

  1. Rides after dark
If you aren’t lined up on Main Street or around the EPCOT lake just before dark, consider yourself luckier than Aladdin when he found the Genie’s lamp. Why? Because Disney parades are the best thing to happen to adults at Disney World since they started selling alcohol in souvenir cups. No, not because of the twinkling lights and dancing movie characters, but because of the vacuum-like effect the parades have on ride lines.

Of course, this is not a fool-proof tip, but it proves true in many instances and is worth a shot regardless of what time of year you’re visiting. When the parades rev up in a Disney park, head for the big kid rides.

And if the sun has gone down already, well all the better. You haven’t seen Disney until you’ve seen it at twilight from the top of the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror; or teetering at the pinnacle of Splash Mountain about to plunge into darkness; or screaming around corners of Thunder Mountain while shadows creep over the track. When the masses get distracted and the sun goes down, Disney takes on an even more surreal atmosphere than normal, if that’s possible. Even Space Mountain, which is always inside in the dark, gets eerier at night. And don’t worry, nobody will judge you, that’s what the rides are there for. Unless you’re wearing Mickey ears – in that case, give them to a kid watching the Tinkerbell parade and head for a rollercoaster. 

  1. California Grill & Fireworks
Dining can be hit or miss in Disney World, with generally more hits than misses. I follow a general rule: eat at hotel restaurants over parks, unless absolutely necessary. EPCOT countries aren’t bad, but even there you must choose wisely. Germany and Mexico offer tasty, authentic fare, but China isn’t so lucky.

But perhaps the best dining experience in Disney World is one geared toward mom and dad, not Junior.

After a long day at the Magic Kingdom, take a short walk next door to the Contemporary Resort. Perched atop is the California Grill, a contemporary (obviously) restaurant serving modern takes on west coast dishes, inspired by wine country and everything else that region has to offer. From sushi to steaks, California Grill is a high quality meal in a fantasy setting, with panoramic views all around of Magic Kingdom and the sprawling Disney property. It’s like eating your way through the ride Soarin’.

The real treat, though, comes with a little planning. Time your reservation (and definitely make a reservation) with the Magic Kingdom fireworks. Whether from your table or from California Grill’s outside roof walk, the nightly extravaganza of colors will seem to be exploding just for you.

  1. Stroll along the Boardwalk
Disney’s Boardwalk Resort was designed to resemble the beach boardwalks of old, complete with all the entertaining possibilities. At night, a stroll by the rail may not evoke sea breeze or salty ocean air, but the carnival games with prize hawkers stir up some nostalgia. Food vendors pump tantalizing aromas along the boards and the lighthouse across the lagoon at the Yacht & Beach Club boat dock gives a New England flavor.

Lined with restaurants and shops, it is the perfect place to end an evening in a way that is very rare in Disney World – free. It doesn’t cost anything to stroll up and down the Boardwalk. Downtown Disney offers the same benefits, but the noise and bustle from unending shopping can make that just as exhausting as running around Magic Kingdom.

Boardwalk is a quieter, albeit less active, alternative. But not at all less exciting. Head into Jellyrolls, the dueling piano bar, and you’ll understand why. Two expert musicians battle it out onstage with crowd suggestions while you sit back and sip a well-deserver beer.

  1. Say Aloha 
The Polynesian is world-class by day, but shake your hips on over for an evening of fun and fantastic food. Bring your large group to the authentic luau or just up to the Ohana, the large restaurant that serves food family-style, freshly grilled on skewers just steps away on the massive open-flames.

The food itself is incredible, and how can you not enjoy yourself chowing down at a huge table and laughing with the personable wait staff. Pork tenderloin, steak tenderloin, shrimp skewers, noodles – everything is delicious and perfectly cooked.
But to wash it all down, just go with the Mai Thai. The drinks are served in cups the size of bowling balls, requiring two hands to hold and a steady footing to endure. A lot of alcohol gets packed into these behemoth beverages, but the tangy-sweet taste transports you from mimicked Hawaii to real Polynesia. Even if you aren’t wearing a Hawaiian shirt, you’ll feel like you are; even if you don’t know how to hula, you’ll try to.

All good Disney World experiences remove you from reality, especially the big kid ones. After all, that’s why us adults love visiting just as much as the tykes, even if we won’t admit it. Work doesn’t reach you here, neither does the headline news. The real world can wait because in the happiest place on earth, you’re always just a kid at heart.



Monday, April 8, 2013

Discover the beauty of off-season Florence



Published in the MetroWest Daily News
Sunday, April 7, 2013

It was sunset atop the Duomo cupola, and there was no mistaking that Florence is an Italian masterpiece.

The city spreads in every direction like burnt-orange brush strokes, the sun glinting off stone patchwork and terracotta rooftops. In the distance, the Tuscan hills rolled like slabs of marble en route to Michaelangelo’s workshop. And when a cool February wind whipped up the side of the dome, it carried with it a brisk reminder that Firenze is a timeless beauty at any time of year.

A typical stopover for tour groups young and old, Florence is Italy’s Renaissance city. From the famous masterpieces, to the goldsmiths along Ponte Vecchio, an ancient bridge spanning the Arno River, to the street musicians plucking away at violins, Florence is the hub of Italian art.

During high season, this cultural menagerie translates into hordes of gawking tourists, packed streets and exhausting lines. Most guidebooks suggest making reservations – not for restaurants but for museums.

But avoiding the chaos of summertime is both possible and worthwhile. You might have to bring a light jacket and gamble on the weather, but the payout is a jackpot – a more intimate Florence, where its treasures are more easily found and more efficiently won.

In general, traveling off-season (typically November through March) in Italy and much of Europe means that airline flights can be found at a bargain, compared to the skyrocketing summer fares. Cheaper lodgings tend to have more vacancies while the more pricey hotels drop their rates. For example, in March a premier room at the Four Seasons Firenze would cost more than 300 Euro (about $385 U.S.) less than in late July.

Battling the weather is merely a matter of layers and can be surprisingly more comfortable than midsummer’s sweltering heat, if you pack correctly. The winter Florentine days are crisp and when clear, the blue sky is a picturesque backdrop for the towering multicolored marble facade and red-ribbed roof of the Duomo, the medieval parapet tower jutting from the Palazzo Vecchio, the city's Romanesque town hall. But the weather plays only a small role in enjoying of Florence, as many of the city’s most striking possessions are found indoors.

During peak months, Florence’s two must-see museums, the Uffizi Gallery and the Academia where Michaelangelo’s David calls home, recommend securing admission in advance.

I arrived in Florence mid-week in mid-February, checked into my charming, affordable hotel – Residenza Della Signora – and within moments was perusing the Renaissance masterpieces in the Uffizi. The line for walk-ins at the museum was shorter than the reservation line and I strolled right in. Without a crowd in this typically crowded U-shaped gallery, the great and lesser-known works alike were more accessible, intimate and enjoyable. Rather than be shuffled along from frame to frame, I was able to spend time indulging in the classical subjects, the technique, use of color, dimension and depth that all blossomed during the Italian Renaissance.

At the Academia, which I walked into the next morning, again without making a reservation, I was reminded of an August visit here some years back. Back then I was hustled along, hastily pushed through the main corridor leading up to Michaelangelo’s David. Now, without the gaping throngs, I lingered at the series of statues that line the hall leading up to David. Michaelangelo’s The Prisoners, as they are called, appear to be breaking free from the massive stone slabs, perhaps unfinished or intentional. The museum layout wisely leads visitors from the least to the most developed sculpture, demonstrating the evolution of the virtuoso artist, culminating in his great masterpiece, David.

But visiting Florence off-season also gives you unfettered access to the region’s other works of art: the food. I gorged on the benefits of off-season travel several times in Firenza, but none were more satisfying than the culinary ones.

All’Antico Vinaio is the number one rated restaurant in Florence, according to most popular travel websites, guidebooks and almost anyone who has ever eaten here. This tiny sandwich shop down a side alley does not look spectacular but everything inside is. The queue typically starts early and stretches out the door and down the cobbled sidewalk. I arrived on a sunny February afternoon to an empty storefront. I strolled past a friendly man sweeping the doorstep and was immediately hit by waves of exquisite aromas. On the counter sat a whole Prosciutto di Parma (cured ham), next to a steaming roast beef still bleeding from the slice cut for the previous customer. Next to that rested a massive porchetta (roast pork). In the deli case were rows upon rows of tapanades, spreads, olives, tomatoes (fresh and sun-dried), cheeses, meats and who knows what else.

I ordered a porchetta panini, which was sliced in front of me, with fresh mozzarella and olives. For the paltry fee of 5 Euro (about $6.40 U.S.), I received a sandwich bloated from heaving slices of roast pork, crispy skin and all.

Another Florentine gastronomic institution, Trattoria Mario, is an experience all its own. You wait, but in off-season you don’t wait as long. Then you sit, you introduce yourself to the strangers you squeeze in next to, you look up at the board with the ever-changing menu. You say, "si, vino (yes, wine)," and you sit back and soak in Italy swarming around you in all its chaotic culinary glory.

Trattoria Mario is a hole in the wall off a piazza, with hundreds of overwhelmingly positive reviews covering the windows and doors. The menu changes daily but everything they offer is something you’d be unable to find anywhere this side of an Italian grandmother's kitchen. I opted for a thick, velvet white bean soup with the word "mangia" (eat)) spelled out on top in dark green olive oil. It was an exquisitely un-busy dish, like most other dishes I saw exit the central galley kitchen. The buzzing chefs do not overdress their dishes, letting fresh ingredients shine.

Beef braccioli, served on Wednesdays, was pounded thin, breaded, pan fried, rolled and swimming in tomato sauce. The meat was so tender I never picked up a knife.

Back atop the Duomo cupola, I watched the setting sun bathe Florence in an orange halo. The last entry to climb the 463 steps to the cupola closes around 5 p.m., meaning most visitors throughout the year experience a beautiful but typically daytime view. But the winter sun sets earlier – just another perk of an off-season visit to Italy’s Renaissance city.

IF YOU GO

WHERE TO STAY: Residenza Della Signoria offers charming, elegant rooms furnished in classic Italian style, with beautiful exposed wood-beam ceilings. Staff is friendly, rates are affordable and it’s perfect location on one of the main thoroughfares is within walking distance to all major attractions. Residenza della Signoria is located at Via dei Tavolini 8-50122, Firenze, Italy. Telephone: +39 055-2645990; Email: info@residenzadellasignoria.com or visit www.residenzadellasignoria.com.

WHERE TO EAT: For incredible sandwiches and a cup of wine, try All’Antico Vinaio located at Via de Neri 65, Santa Croce, Firenze, Italy, 50123. For an authentic Italian dining experience, complete with communal seating and out-of-this-world dishes, visit Trattoria Mario located at Via Rosina 2R (near Piazza del Mercato Centrale), Firenze, Italy, 50123. Telephone +39 055–218550; Email: trattoriamario@libero.it or visit www.trattoria-mario.com. Neither place accepts credit cards so bring cash and a big appetite.


Read more: http://www.metrowestdailynews.com/lifestyle/x2082728731/Travel-Discover-the-beauty-of-off-season-Florence#ixzz2PvkMjf6J

Sunday, March 31, 2013

A Day in Flashy Florence

Florence, Italy is saturated with treasures, from statues to paintings to culinary masterpieces. But the city itself is its most exquisite work of art. The architecture rivals the people for flash. A factor of unforgettability flows right along with the city's river. And the best part is, from morning, to noon to night, you can experience the best of Renaissance Italy just by strolling the streets of flashy Firenze. 

The Duomo and it's sparkling red, green and white facade absorbs the morning light like a marble sponge. With a crisp morning sky, the entire impressive structure instantly becomes more photogenic than supermodels strutting the catwalks of Milan. A short walk away and the Ponte Vecchio shimmers like the jewelry being sold in its shops. The Old Bridge is like no other bridge you've ever seen, bustling with shoppers scouring the stores hanging out over the water like flower-filled windowboxes.

If you're lucky, you're stomach will let you know it's lunchtime before the bell towers around town. In Florence, as in a lot of Italy, most anywhere will provide a good bite, but a stop at Trattoria Mario's or All' Antico Vinaio and you've arrived at another plane of gastronomic excellence. Most obviously, you're getting something fresh for lunch: fresh-sliced proscuitto or porchetta piled high on fresh-baked bread, or perhaps a bowl of freshly-made pasta next to a plate of freshly picked vegetables. 

After a carbo-loading lunch, walking may be the best remedy for a full stomach. Of course, if a scooter is at your disposal, it may be one way to motor across town to some of the other tourist destinations like the Uffizi Gallery or the Academia, where Michaelangelo's David calls home. But if you choose to tackle the Italian roadways, you're risking more than just your personal safety. 

As the afternoon begins to wane, Firenze is just getting revved up. The trattorias, cafes and bars begin to buzz with life, as well as the open piazzas. Street musicians playing cellos, violins and guitars warm up, quickly shifting into classical masterpieces, Italian songs and a few familiar pop hits. You've never heard Gloria Gaynor's "I Will Survive" until you've heard it plucked on a cello by an old Italian man standing next to a carousel. 

Before the Tuscan sun begins to drop behind the far-off hills, circle back to the Duomo. By now, you've hopefully burned off your lunch, or else the 400+ staircase to the top of the cupola might be sluggish. The reward at the top is well worth it. A 360 degree view of this stunning Renaissance city is emphasized by the burnt-orange halo descending over every terra-cotta roof and marble column. The city glows as you take a deep breath and exhale into the brisk wind whipping up the side of the dome. 

By the time you make your way back to ground level, and night has fallen over Firenze, a new beauty awakens. Again revisiting an earlier landmark, walk past Ponte Vecchio to one of the other bridges crossing Florence's river. From the middle of any bridge, the river reflects the city lights and an artistic dance of shadow and illumination unravels in the flowing Arno. 

Florence - from its buildings to its food to its people - is a photography playground. There are treasures around every corner, and since you can't take snapshots in the art museums, you'll be snapping away along the streets. But the naked eye is just as good, since most anything you see will be indelibly saved in your memory - the unforgettable flash of Firenze. 


Here are some photos from a day in Florence - morning, noon and night.


 
The Duomo facade


Ponte Vecchio in the sun


Proscuitto panini from All' Antico Vinaio


The unassuming front of Trattoria Mario


Scooter Stand


Street musicians at dusk


Plucking away


Duomo's shadow


Shimmering lights on the Arno


Arno in Black and White





Saturday, March 16, 2013

Any Pub in Dublin - March monthly travel column


By Michael Hartigan
Printed in the Saugus Advertiser - March 14, 2013

Dublin locals can’t stand it when you stereotype them. They know the world expects them to be overly hospitable, highly talkative connoisseurs of fine spirits. It’s not that they take offense; they just humbly prefer you refrain from pointing out their best qualities and instead join them for a pint.

It doesn’t take much to feel at home in Dublin, Ireland. The people here welcome all comers with open arms, hearty laughs and heartier conversation, broken only by the occasional request for a, “wee pint of Guinness.” Step into any pub and suddenly you’re one of them, feeling right at home embracing the Irish way.

Just pick a pub, any pub, because any pub in Dublin is better than every bar anywhere else. You won’t go wrong with any one you choose. Or, if you’re like me and have a Sunday to spare in the Irish capital, any seven you choose.

My Sunday in Dublin began quietly enough, meeting some friends for coffee and strolling around the grounds of the magnificent Trinity College. When we saw that the line to see the famed Book of Kells stretched around one courtyard and spilled over into the next, we decided not to waste a day in Dublin standing in a line. There are much better ways to experience Irish culture.

After strolling down a few roads away from the College, we found ourselves at The Duke, a typical Irish pub serving typical food and typical beer. But typical is a compliment here because anything less or anything more would be unauthentic and out of place.

At The Duke I asked the bartender about the rules for the upcoming Irish Football match. Three pints later, I still was unsure about the rules but had begun to understand the importance of that afternoon’s impending semifinal championship match between Dublin and Mayo.
We thanked the bartended and sauntered into the sunny Irish afternoon in search of a pub we’d all heard of named O’Neill’s.

Upon my arrival in Ireland several days before, several people — including a bus driver — forewarned me that the Irish will never say they don’t know how to get somewhere. Instead, the bus driver assured me, an Irishman will give you directions whether he knows the way or not.

After obtaining bad directions from a local, we walked 30 minutes the wrong way before turning around and retracing our steps. O’Neill’s was five minutes from where we had begun.

If you can only visit one Irish pub in Dublin, snag a seat at O’Neill’s. It is on a back corner near an old church and a side street where tour buses pick up day passengers. One of O’Neill’s draws is the building itself. It is a pile of old, wooden rooms scattered on top, next to and around corners and crannies.

On that particular Sunday, the crowd was more locals than tourists due to the Irish Football playoff match. The sport could best be described as a mix between soccer, rugby and felony assault. I was immediately drawn to the astounding athleticism and savage headshots, not to mention the roars emanating equally from the blue-and-white clad Dublin fans and the Mayo supporters in green and red. The atmosphere resembled a Boston bar during a Yankees/Red Sox game. In fact, the bartender described the Dublin team as the Irish Football equivalent of the Bronx Bombers. So of course, we rooted for Mayo.

After several pints and a Mayo win, we spilled out of O’Neill’s cheering for the victors and got caught up in the flow of happy sports fans undulating toward the city’s infamous Temple Bar.

Temple Bar is a neighborhood built for revelry, packed with pubs and restaurants. We picked our way through the decorated and lively Oliver St. John Gogarty’s Pub, named after one of the city’s influential writers and difference-makers, and then turned up at Buskars for a pint.

From there, the only logical destination was the neighborhood’s namesake, the pub called Temple Bar.

If O’Neill’s was a classic pub, Temple Bar was its crazy, drunk uncle. The pub was jammed with people, both locals who watched the game and a deluge of tourists crammed around the musicians rattling off traditional Irish songs.

We found a tiny square of floor one layer removed from the bar and stood our ground. The two older gentlemen sitting on stools in front of us immediately started a conversation about America, Irish Football and the tortoise-like serving speed of our bartender.

A few pints and few sing-alongs later, we left our new friends at Temple Bar, found our way to the nearby Finnegan’s, and made a few more. Nothing elaborate or flashy stands out about Finnegan’s, except the drinks and laughs we shared with the other patrons: a priest, a lawyer, a cop and a firefighter (no, this is not the start of a joke).



The group I had traversed Dublin with began to thin after Finnegan’s, but I was not ready to concede the evening. Us remaining few took the roundabout way home, remembering vaguely that asking for directions would have gotten us the same result. After some rights and lefts and unknown back roads, we stumbled onto The Stag’s Head. We grabbed three seats at the bar and settled in for a few more pints of Guinness.

After several days and what was beginning to be countless pubs, the local brew still tasted fresh. Guinness in Ireland is equivalent to scotch in Scotland or cabernet in Napa. Here, this black liquid ambrosia takes on a whole new body and flavor, rich with malty sweetness and smooth from start to finish.

As I watched the foam slide down inside my empty pint glass, I knew it was time to head for the hotel. A large crowd of locals, some sitting and some standing, was congregated immediately outside the door. They were a raucous bunch, singing, yelling and talking in escalating decibels. I knew they were in their 60s, or at least one of them was, by the writing on a birthday cake that sat partially cut up on an overturned wooden barrel in the middle of the street.

“Happy birthday!” I yelled over the din, and suddenly we were part of the family.
I spent an hour talking to a man named Peter from a town just up the road from Dublin. Peter lived seven years in Somerville, on a street and house that I knew. Small world, indeed.

When we finally, regrettably departed, the pubs were shuttering their windows. I had drank, hugged and chatted my way across greater Dublin, in a fashion some people would consider wasteful or crass. I considered it getting to know the city, the people, the culture, their delicious beer and delicious birthday cakes. And incontrovertible proof to my theory that any pub in Dublin, is better than every bar anywhere else.

Mike Hartigan of Saugus is a writer and traveler looking for good story, wherever it takes. Follow along at www.whereverittakes.com or on Twitter @WhereverItTakes


Read more: Wherever it Takes column: Any pub in Dublin - Saugus, MA - Saugus Advertiser http://www.wickedlocal.com/saugus/news/x846069013/Wherever-it-Takes-column-Any-pub-in-Dublin#ixzz2NiA332AR